1. Field of the Invention
This invention relates to anchors.
More particularly, this invention relates to rock climbing anchors for safely protecting a leader engaged to a rope from injury in the event of a fall.
In a further and more specific aspect, the instant invention relates to a removable rock climbing anchor for drilled holes formed through a rock face.
In yet a further aspect, the instant invention relates to a removable expansion bolt anchor with a built-in hanger, eye or loop for attaching carabiners that is lightweight, easy to install and easy to remove while climbing.
2. Prior Art
Rock climbing involves knowledge of rope handling. Climbers use a rope to belay, or secure, one another; one climbs while another holds the rope to protect against any fall or slip. A technique called rappelling is used in descending very steep terrain. The rope is attached in such a way that it can be pulled down after the last climber has used it; descending along the rope, the climbers use the friction thus generated (often absorbed by a mechanical device attached to their bodies) to control their rate of descent. Techniques now used for the steepest rock climbs include the use of chocks, devices that are wedged into crevices in the rock. The rope is attached to these by means of snap rings called carabiners. Vertical and overhanging rock faces may also require use of short ladderlike loops of nylon webbing, attached to the rock by the lead climbers. Following climbers can then use two mechanical ascenders that alternately grip and release the rope as the climber goes up, while standing in attached stirrups.
Rock climbing originated as a means of practicing techniques for ascending high mountains; it has evolved into a highly developed sport in itself. Although the sport does have risks, and accidents may be of catastrophic proportions, proper training and advanced techniques now ensure relative safety. Climbers often begin by taking lessons through a college group, or from one of the many local clubs in all parts of the world. Others learn from experienced friends or professional guides. Because so many of the early climbing enthusiasts were scientists or writers, or both, the field is unusually rich in descriptive literature. Current trends in climbing favor ascents made by small parties, or even solo climbers, moving very quickly with a minimum of lightweight equipment over direct routs. Summits such as Everest, previously reached only under ideal conditions, are now being successfully gained during autumn and winter months, and without the use of oxygen. Women are playing an increasingly important part in mountaineering, participating in national expeditions and organizing some of their own.
Rock climbing anchors are routinely used by both amateur and professional climbers to aid them in safely ascending and descending rock faces such high rock cliffs and mountains. These rock climbing anchors are particularly useful when the rock face includes little or no cracks or rock face irregularities climbers can use to grab onto during ascent or descent. In such a case, a hole is normally drilled through the rock face within which is placed an expansion bolt. These expansion bolts are fitted with a bolt hanger having an aperture operative for receiving portions of the expansion bolt for securing the bolt hanger to the expansion bolt, and another larger aperture to which a carabiner may be clipped. The climbing rope is attached with carabiners on a sling known as a quickdraw to those skilled in the art. These expansion bolts are permanently fixed in the rock face every ten to twenty feet along a climbing route, and are commonly referred to as fixed anchors.
Fixed anchors have been banned on most Federal and State lands where most rock climbing can be found because they are considered environmentally detrimental. In Yosemite National Park, power drilling the holes for the fixed anchors is banned to prevent proliferation. In Joshua Tree National Park, all fixed anchor bolting is banned until completion of an environmental impact study. This prevents establishing new climbing routes on rock faces without cracks.
Many existing fixed expansion bolt anchors on the thousands of rock faces in the world are thirty to forty years old. Because these fixed anchors are susceptible to corrosion, of antiquated design and not specifically designed for safe rock climbing, they are inherently unsafe and have contributed to many accidents and accidental deaths throughout the world.
In addition, on first ascents of long climbs that do not have continuous crack systems to be followed, hundreds of fixed anchors and hangers are required to be purchased at considerable expense and hauled up the rock face to be permanently fixed into the rock face. As many rock climbers know, hauling up a considerable amount of fixed anchors and hangers is not only physically difficult, but may also contribute to premature exhaustion on the part of the climber which can be dangerous for the climber.
It would be highly advantageous, therefore, to remedy the foregoing and other deficiencies inherent in the prior art.
Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a new and improved anchor detachably engagable to a bore formed through a rock face or other such face.
Another object of the present invention is to provide an anchor that is reusable.
And another object of the present invention is to provide an anchor that is safe.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide an anchor that is easy to use.
Yet another object of the instant invention is to provide an anchor that is easy to install.
Yet still another object of the instant invention is to provide an anchor that is easy to remove.
And a further object of the invention is to provide an anchor that is easy to construct.
Still a further object of the immediate invention is to provide an anchor that is environmentally friendly.
Yet a further object of the invention is the provision of limiting the costs associated with rock climbing.
And still a further object of the invention is the provision of limiting the amount of rock climbing anchors climbers need to haul with them during a climb.
Another object of the invention is the provision of limiting the number of life threatening accidents that frequently occur as a result of the use of old preexisting fixed anchors.
And another object of the invention is to provide a new and improved method for attaching an anchor to a bore formed through a rock face or other similar face.